'We group the other people of the Ural-Japanese stock in the following ethnological description. We have already alluded to their bodily pecu liarities, and have also spoken of the manifold transitions which must necessarily appear in so extended a population.
Dress and clothing differs as we go north or south. The southerners dress essentially as the Indo-Chinese and Japanese: the men wear wide trousers, and over these a loose caftan, with a belt from which the more indispensable articles hang (pl. 70, fig. I; I. 72, fig. 5). The poorer tribes wear a kind of jacket (pl. 73, fig. 3); instead of the caftan the more prosperous ones and the noble classes have an ungirded, flowing robe over the caftan, like the Kirgheez (pi 71, figs. 2, 3) and the noble inhabitants of the Crimea and of Khiva 93, figs. I, 2, 5). The women dress in the same manner (pi. 70, fig. 1) or similarly (pi. 72,fig. 8; pl.
74, fig. 0.
Of course there are all kinds of ornaments—splendid belts (pl. 7; fi/. 74, figs. 3, 4), rich stomachers (pl. 74, figs. 1, 3), etc. Colored cloths are common, red being the favorite color. For the head there are high felt caps or a flat hat (pi 70, fig. or, as among the Kir,glieez, a light cap. The head-dress of the women is often richly ornamented and colored GM 72, figs. 7, 8; pl. 73, 4; 151. 74, figs. 1, 3, 4). The curious bead-ornament on Plate 73 (fig. 4) consists of a high framework of bark, over which a cloth is drawn; this figure reminds us of many costumes of Farther India.
Cloths wound about the head, often hanging low down (pl. 72, fig. 8), designate the married women (pl. 7i, fig. 2): the middle one of the Nogais women (p. 72, fig. 8), who has a long queue, and the Kirgheez sitting in the middle (pi. 71, fig. 3), are maidens, for only they wear the hair free; the Kirgheez women at the right with high-pointed caps and long veils are brides. The Turks (pl. 72,ATS. I, 2) wear turbans, like all Mohammedans. The trousers are bound up at the knee or (among the women) at the ankle, or are pushed into the boots (fl. 70, fig. r ; pl. 72, fi 5), or gaiters. They always have shoes, and the central Nogais woman (Al 72, fig. 8) shows the curious foot-covering that we have already noticed in Japan. The Calmuck women wear the hair in long
queues; the men shave it off, with the exception of a long tuft on the top of the head, which is often also twisted into a queue (pl. 70, fig. 1).
The greater part of these peoples-at least the southerners-sit in a squatting posture (p1. 69, figs. 7, r 1 ; pl. 71, jigs. 2, 3; pl. 73, fig. I). The same dress is worn in the north, except that ninch more of the costume is worn close-fitting, and the material is not cotton, but mostly skins or fur. 'flue Tungusian races of Saghalin afford a good example of this (pl. 67, fig. 6). The felt caps which in the south-e.g. among the Calmucks (pi 70, fig. 0-were sometimes covered with fur, are here of leather or fur, and made so as to cover the ears (pl. 68, fig. 6; pl. 70, ji.c. 9), with fur cowls (p1. 69, fig. 6; pl. 74, jigs. 6,7, 8, the child) and high or low fur caps over all (pl. 68, fig-. 2 ; pl. 69, Jigs. 3, 4; pi. 70, 3).
The coats, of fur with the hair worn inside, or of soft tanned leather, are full but short, and bound in at the hips with a belt often richly ornamented (pl. 69, figs. 5, pl. 75, fig. 8); and they are well provided with cowls and fur collars, embroideries, etc., etc. (pl. 75, fig. 7). Only among the 'funguses are they worn close-fitting to the body (pi 68, fig. 9). The bodice forms a peculiar ornament which either hangs directly from the hood (fl. 69, fig. 6) or is not closed in front (fl. 68, figs. 4, 5).
The trousers are generally tight at the knee and pushed into boots or gaiters, which, like the gloves (pl. 77, fig. 2), are made of fur, and sometimes firmly bound in by straps attached to the sandal-like shoes (pl. 68, fig. 5), The leather breeches of the Vakoots are peculiar; they arc put on in separate pieces; the two legs are first hound in at top and bottom, and then an over-piece, like a pair of batting trousers, is pulled on over than and covers the body (pi 70, figs. 7, Id). The wealthier women wear as outermost garment a richly-ornamented short coat, open in front so as to display the costly breast- and belt-ornaments (pl. 69, fig. .1; pl. 70, fig. 3).