Short Hair

hats, dish, stove, shape, press, pressing, pumps, hard, size and water

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Stoving.—The next department is the stove, where rill blocked hats are taken to be gently dried. To retain the shape is the great desideratum in this process. If too hot, the bats, being wet, are reduced too quickly by the heat, and, being loaded with water, steam rapidly, and fall in shape, thus destroying all that the blocker has done. Having dried the hoods, it is requisite to strengthen the hard hats. This is effected by taking a small brush, and again pasting on a thin coat of proof, in the inside of the tip as well as the aides, to assist in retaining the shape. If the crown is very sharp and flat, it will be necessary to insert a thin layer of calico, stiffened with proof, and out round like the crown. This, in pressing, fixes the crown firmly in its place, and holds it tight. With common woollen hard hats, it is usual to pass the outside over a rose gas-jet, to aiuge the long nap, placing them to damp a little in the air. Singeing is not admissible for soft hats ; they are much improved in quality by lying in a cold, damp cellar for some time before using. Hata that are pasted must again be taken to a low stove, to dry the paste before being removed to the stock-room. The best method is to assort all the bats, both as to shape and size, on taking them from this stove, that the operator in the pressing department may take all one sort required for his orders to press at once, thus saving considerable time and labour.

Pressing.—The next process for hard hats, and in many eases for soft ones also, is " pressing." A ground floor is most suitable for this department, as heavy pumps, retorts, presses, and dishes or moulds, are required. The most refined taste is demanded in selecting shapes suitable for the various markets. Having decided upon the shapes to be made in hard hats, blocks are turned in wood, two sizes, and sometimes three sizes, larger than the pattern hat. The moulder casts the shape in iron, called a " dish." Not more than ono should be made of each shape decided upon, for it frequently occurs that alterations are necessary, and that these first attempts are useless. On receiving the dishes from the moulder, each should be examined first for blown places in the casting ; if any of importance are detected, they should be rejected at once, because a great pressure having to be put upon them, 200 lb. a eq. in., or even more, any flaw will be forced open, thus causing expense and delay. Secondly, the oval and size of each dish should be ascertained to be correct ; and lastly, each dish, being ground and glazed internally, requires great care in testing the even ness of the grinding. Should any inequality occur, it will be clearly shown on each hat, and damage the general appearanoe when finished. It is important that the dish should fit dead to the under plate in the press. This can be decided by placing a straight-edge across the inner ring of the press upon which the dish rests, afterwards applying it to the back of the dish, which is turned to a flat surface. If it is round, or " hump-backed," the first trial of the pressman will break it into pieces. The same thing will occur if it is turned out too hollow. What is desirable is a solid face, if the dishes are to stand the constant strain put upon them. Finding all correct, a alight mark at back and front, to indicate the exact centre, will be found of great service in giving the trimmer a certain guide in fixing in the bat tip or lining, for nothing looks more slovenly than to have the stamp or name on the lining crooked. Each selected dish will have its size plainly marked on, or large

figures may be cast in the outer skin of the dish. The selection of a substantial pair of pumps, with a capacious overflow cistern, will greatly assist in turning out a regular quantity of work, many makers being imposed upon in this respect, by machinists advising the use of pumps much too weak for the purpose. These must be secured solidly upon a stone or concrete foundation, screwed firmly to the same by T-bolta socketed into the masonry. At a short distance is fixed a stout iron retort, 6 ft. high, and 2 in. inside diameter being the most useful size. A supply-pipe connects this retort with the pumps, beside a corresponding one to return the overflow. Above the centre of the retort is a pressure-gauge, for indicating to the presser the exact amount of pressure being exerted upon each hat. The press is also connected by a feed-pipe with this retort, and an overflow pipe to return the water, before releasing the _pressure from the internal indiarubber bag. A stove, heated by fire or steam, is arranged as near as possible to the press. If used as a fire-stove, a central strip, which divides it into four compartments, is dispensed with, using merely a square chest with wooden ribs, forming a shelf across the centre. Hazel sticks laid across are strong enough to carry the weight of the hats. A solid shelf would burn the hats, and destroy itself quickly. This fire-stove requires the utmost attention on the part of the workman, to keep it at such a heat as will merely soften the proof or substance of shellac, without drawing it to the surface, or the work is at once damaged. On pressing the two hate, for no more must be placed in the fire-stove at once, the wooden cross-pieces are removed and cooled in water, or it will be found that, at the points where the hate have rested, the intense heat has drawn the shellac. This fact has brought the steam-heated stove or " baker " into use wherever there is a steam supply. This stove is composed of an outer jacket, as well as an internal case, divided into four equal compartments, and leaving a steam space between the inner and outer cases. The joints of the steam-cheat are made good by a aeries of bolts, and luted with iron-turnings and sal ammoniac. Immediately adjoining, the chest is connected with a steam-trap, to keep it free from condensed water. For safety, cast-iron should be rejected for this structure, as under a strong direct boiler pressure it would be most dangerous. The cost will be a little more to construct the outer shell of boilerplate; but safety should be the first consideration. The inner chest may safely be constructed of cast-iron. There is uo danger of burning the hats in this arrangement, as in the one heated by fire. Four hate can be under operation at once ; the operator, removing the one 'longest in the oven, presses this first, replacing it by another, to keep up a constant supply so long as he requires to continue pressing.

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