A very elaborate machine, working by hydraulic pressure, and following the lines pursued by hand labour with the hot iron, is shown in Fig. 825. The driving-pulley E gives motion to the upright spindle F. Firmly fixed above the top step, runs a face-plate B, dished out to receive a sunken ring, having the exact form of the hard hat whose brim is to receive an Anglesea or flat curl. A boy can readily be instructed to attend to the machine. The rings are made to suit each size of hat, and may be adjusted in succession to the same face-plate. On the extremity of the spindle F, is secured the expanding block A to fit any size of hat. By drawing back the handle D along the compound slide H, the hat is free to rest upon the sunken ring. Having cut the brim to an approximate size, the two slides attached to the lever (1 are moved forward to the edge of the felt that is curled over into the sunken ring, for G is so constructed as to double the felt over, and being heated by gas, effectively irons down the whole of the curl. Pressure upon the hot iron is regulated at C. D being used to follow up the curl until completely sunk into the mould or sunken ring, A revolves, turning the hat with it, while G remains stationary. The shape of the hat being oval, presented a difficulty in attempting to iron it down by a circular motion, but this was overcome by a cam, enabling the iron G to follow the exact course of the oval, by means of the compound slide. The machine is complicated, and is expensive to work so far as quantity is concerned. The rings are required to be of all widths and sizes, and the apparatus is suited only to the requirements of a large manufacturer. The small machine illustrated at D (Fig. 827) is one of the most useful heaters for curling plain shapes. Three of these form a set, the circles of each being so designed as to take in several sizes of hat. Under the steam-chamber a, is placed a strip of felt, and the same on steam-chest b, to prevent the binding of the hats being scorched. Each chamber has an indeepndent steam connection, which requires to be provided with a steam-trap, to prevent any accumulation of condensed water. It is further advisable to have the connecting pipes of such length and construction as will allow of an expansion of a couple of inches. The half of the hat-brim to be curled is put between the lips, as it were, of these two chambers, so far as to cover just the width to be heated. A loot-lever is better than the hand lever d. The lips are pinched close, and the hat when hot is taken out and curled. Very much time is saved by this process, as one hat can be heated whilst another is in work, at the same time doing away with all ironing, and making it easy for juvenile labour. The best way of using the machine, is to make the working bench level with tho top side of the steam-chest b; by this means, the hat, resting flat upon the bench, can be moved directly into the aperture.
The curling finished, the hats are ready for the shaper. As the bats require trimming, it will be oonvenient first to follow that process, reverting to this department when finishing the shaping of the brim. In large manufactories, a considerable number of females arc employed to trim the goods, as both hard and soft children's and ladies' hats demand a delicacy and lightness of handling only to be obtained by female labour. A commodious well-lit room is requisite for the fineness of the work. The hats being assorted in regular sizes, the trimmer is supplied with the leathers, linings, bands, and bindings, with paper or underlining, as the case may be. These she places upon the hat, lashing in the leathers, being specially careful not to apply too thick a paste around the tops of bard hats, for this has a tendency to make the crown give way in shape, destroying all the previous work, and rendering the hat almost valueless. The markings of the press dishes
are very useful to the trimmer, enabling her to determine the exact centre of the hat. The whipping-in of the leathers evenly in the stitches adds much to the character of the work. In measuring out the bands and bindings, a person of great steadiness and firmness is required, so that all odd. scraps of silk, &o., are used up, and no more than the exact measure given out, other wise what has been calculated upon as a profit may be more than lost in this department. Tickets or size labels are gummed on to each hat. Those requiring bindings, such as plain shapes or soft hate, can be bound by Thomas's machine, or fancy-stitched on the baud and binding. The most approved method is to drive all the sewing-machines by steam, for they are then more evenly worked than by treadle.
Soft and half-stiffened hats are completed in this department, except brushing and veluring. Hard hate are returned to the shaping-room.
While the operation of curling the hard hate dealt only with the outer edge of the brim, the final one of shaping alters the whole surface. Great experience and refinement of taste can alone ensure satisfitctory results. A good light, to enable the shaper to place his work against it, so as to make the lines strike sharp and clear to the eye, is an essential. He places 3 or 4 hats on a steam cheat, heated to soften the shellac of the proof once more ; when sufficiently soft, the hat is pulled a little at back and front, and by resting the crown on the bench, the workman uses his thumbs to break the band of the hat all round the leather. Pulling in the curl from the shoulder on the extreme edge, and following the curl up to the body of the hat, prevents any further contraction taking place. Should the work be stamped in this respect, the hat is almost certain to lose its shape, and look very slovenly indeed. With a fiat dummy, the back and front of the brim are worked even and straight ; a plough ie used for the upper side, to blend the curves on the sides when the hat will be finished.
Veluring.—The last process before packing is " vehiring," after the hats have cooled. This is best conducted, as is also the packing, in a room free from duet. Good bench accommodation is provided, with a range of veluring-lathes (Fig. 826), of similar construotion to the finishing-lathes, driven by engine power. The hats being fixed upon the lathe, the finisher applies a velvet pad ; first brushing the dirt from the hat, then damping the velvet, and steaming it upon the gas-stove B CP4r, R9'71 he starts the lathe, pressing the velure upon the tip and sides of the bat, and afterwards applying it hot velure to give polish and an even surface. Under the brim, he proceeds in the same manner, and this completes the last stage of the manufac ture of both soft and arn nate.
In this department, are oonducted the boxing and nesting of the bats, in order that no indentations may be made on them, for being placed one upon another and handled roughly is sure to cause damage. The sides of the brims need protection, otherwise the motion backwards and forwards would " fridge " the brims, and on reaching their destination, the bats would be found unfit for sale. The sizes should be marked plainly on each parcel or box, to correspond with the invoice, and a careful register should be kept of every particular of the bat, e. g. colour, brim, curve, band, binding, &c., to ensure exact compliance with orders.