The rolled curl only differs from the Anglesea in being round instead of flat, a round pad being used in curling. A plain curl merely has the side edges curled up * in. at the sides, and is bound with a narrow galloon binding.
Crown-sewing.—The silk plush being marked out to the size required, the crown-maker places the plush upon the tip nap next the body, and cuts it exactly to the size, so as just to cover the edge or square. About a in. is now turned over, and the sides are taken with about the same amount turned. The sewing ia commenced about the middle of one aide of the tip, and continued round to the place where it first started, leaving the two ends of the side unsewn, the finisher making the joint there upon the body, as previously explained. The crown must be sewn very neatly and closely upon the back of the pinsh, the nap being turned evenly through the seam with the needle, otherwise the stitches and seem would be seen. The bat is now trimmed very closely with seisscra and the topside of the brim is joined in the same manner, the seam being diagonally across it.
Trimming.—The binding is put on, and the inside lining and leather are put in by the trimmer, requiring neat and careful sewing, the puffed silk lining especially needing care and nicety in drumming it.
Fig. 829 shows some of the tools and appliances employed by silk batters, in addition to those already illustrated in Figs. 827, 828. They are as follows :—A, shapers' curling-dummy ; B, wooden sunken frame, used by body-makers ; the surface is covered with zinc ; C, wooden " riser " for adjusting the height of the crown, one or more being placed inside the frame ; D, tip-block, with felt cover a ; E : half-block ; b, half-block arm ; c, plank ; d, felt cover to half-block ; F, stirrup : a, copper wire ; b, cord ; G, block : a, middle piece; b, side pieces ; e, front and back pieces; H, crown frame, 72 in. x 24 in., with side section showing pegs ; the brim-frame is similar, but 56 in. x 36 in. ; J, finishers' and shapers' brim-frame ; K, how placed on the pegs of J, used by the finisher when putting the silk on the brim ; L, spinner.
The various cloths used for hatters' purposes must be free from dressing, and of a porous character, so as to readily admit the cougle. For the crowns: a light Indian shirting, 24 in. for framing ; and a light jaconet, 32 in. wide. The side is covered twice, and the tip once for an ordinary hat. For the brims : a stout calico 36 in. wide, and a twill of the same width, two lengths of each being put upon the frame. No covering is required for brims, unless unusual strength is desired. Hobbies are of muslin, 32 in. wide. Plusher are of various qualities, the shortness, thickness, and fineness of the nap determining its value. The back is of cotton, and the nap of silk. Nearly the whole of the silk plush used comes from France, although a small quantity is imported from Metz. The plush is 32 in. wide. The tips are cut on the straight ; the sides and brims on the "bias." Shellao tho " A C garnet " and " bright button " are mostly used. " Cougle": 28 lb. shellac, 20 oz. ammonia, and 28 qt. water ; boil the water, then add the ammonia, and as quickly as possible the shellac, for the ammonia aeon escapes ; when nearly dissolved, add a few oz. more ammonia, and a little water, letting it down with cold water to a thick consistency ; it can be tested by rubbing between tho fingers the same as hard felt proof; it is not gauged, but is reduced to the thickness of a thin flour paste. Spirit proof is made as in the case of hard hats. Shellac is let down ould in methylated spirits to the consistency of a thin varnish, for application as a coating to the body after drying, to stick the silk covering and brim, as well as the robins, and to strengthen the band and tip of the bat.
Exports.—The annual value of the hats exported from the United Kingdom amounts to a stun varying between 1 and 1 million pounds sterling. The home consumption is represented by a very much higher figure.
(See Fur ; Hair ; Silk Manufactures ; Wool ; Woollen Manufactures.) W. M.