A light or heavy body is regulated by the number of substances of calico used, or by the weight of cloth. If very light is desired, all muslin for the crown is substituted for ealico, and a lighter make of calico is used for the brim. For what are termed " zephyr " bodies, a stout muslin is used for the foundation, with a very light muslin for the cover ; this makes an exceedingly light body, but of course is not so durable, being unable to stand herd wear.
The prepared calico taken from the brim-frame (56 in. by 36 in.) will make I doz. brims. One of these is now taken, and the block being placed in the centre, the size of the block is marked upon it. The middle is next cut out to within in. of the mark. The square is then placed upon a piece of board covered with "swans'-down," and is well ironed until it has a smooth surface, and becomes perfectly pliable. A brim-frame J (Fig. 829) is now required. It is of an oval form, arched, and sunk about 3 in. in the centre, but the depth can be altered by inserting thin pieces of wood, called " risers," C (Fig. 829). The block is placed in the centre of the frame, and adjusted to the required dimensions. The softened brim is pulled over the tip of the block, and brought down to the frame, and pressed closely to the side of the crown by the iron dummy ; this leaves about in. of the brim upon the side, which is termed the band. Some thick spirit varnish has been previously brushed upon the crown, round the band, so that when the band is ironed it shall become perfectly secure. The crown being placed upon the side with the brim-frame, kept in position by being pressed against the chest of the workman, the band is well ironed, and afterwards the upper edge is pared, and a robin is ironed over it, and well dummied. The brim is now firmly secured, and only requires ironing upon the underside, to do which the block is taken out, and the brim is placed upon an iron plate let into the plank, and hollowed out so as to allow the band of the hat to be brought up close, in order to obtain a sharp-edged hand. The body being now complete, it is put into the drying-room, where it is allowed to remain for several hours. Having been examined and passed as properly made, it is ready to be placed in the hands of the finisher, who covers it with silk.
Finishing.—The silk plush is made into a crown, that is a side and tip, and sewn around the top edge or square of the tip, care being taken in sewing to turn the nap through with the needle, so that the stitches may not be seen when the crown is put on the body. The finisher first prepares for the side seam, by putting a small quantity of cougle on the back of the plush just where it is desired to cut the seam. The nap on the part that is to be last laid is carded back the reverse way. This is done by first damping the part with a sponge and water, and then taking a wire
card and carefully drawing the nap back for about 1 in. The iron is next passed over it in order to fix the nap down, and then a straight clean cut is made with scissors. The block is placed inside the body, and thus on a spinner L (Fig. 829), a small circular block of wood with a peg in the centre to enable the block to be easily turned round. The crown is now pulled over the body with the nap outwards, and the tip being perfectly adjusted so that the seam shall come close to the edge, the silk tip is damped all over, and ironed, the body having been previously varnished on the out side with spirit varnish. It will then be adherent to the body. The nap is now carded, so as to take a circular form, narrowing from the outside of the tip to the centre. The side seam is the next consideration. This is made on the left side of the body. The hat being placed on its side, the right is the first to be stuck down diagonally from the tip to the brim. The second or left seam requires the greatest care, as it must be brought close to the edge of the first, without in the least degree lapping over it. This is done about an inch at a time, the edge of the iron being used. When completed, the nap is again carded back, over the edges of the seam, and wetted and ironed. The remainder of the crown has now to be stuck. It must be pulled down to the band, se as to fit the body exactly without creases. It is then ironed over, and well damped, and the nap is brushed and carded perfectly straight, and again ironed with a good hot iron. The nap is well brushed after this, velured with velvet; and again ironed dry. This is to restore the brilliancy of the silk. The silk on the top Ode of the brim is put on the same way as the crown, with the exception that it is stuck all around the outer edge of the brim with the iron, and the remaining portion is pulled into the hand with a stirrup F (Fig. 829), made of copper wire and stout cord or leather. Without the stirrup, it would not be possible to get the silk into the baud without creases. The wire is placed over the crown, and the silk is gathered up by it. The foot being placed in the lower loop, it is pulled tight. The nap is brushed, carded, and ironed as before described. It only remains to put on the underside of brim, which is now almost always of merino. Formerly silk plush, corded silk, and satin were commonly used ; but merino remains the most approved material for this purpose. It is put on in one piece, a damp cloth is placed over it, and then ironed, the centre being cut out, leaving about in. to be turned down on the inside of the band of the hat. Some thick spirit varnish is used to fasten it down.