Many firms press all soft hats the same as hard hate, obtaining a much finer finish by the process, although losing thickness in the feel ; still this even, thin consistency is much esteemed in some markets. The pressing of soft hats is a little varied from the treatment of the hard ones. Goods of the size wanted are selected from the damping-cellar, and given time to dry by opening them out singly. By a pipe carried into a chest underneath the dish, steam is admitted to heat the dish in which the bat is going to be pressed, which rnakea a much finer surface. The dish must never be allowed to get too warm, or it will " punish " the goods considerably, and disappoint those whose expectations have been raised by the repute of this process. The apparatus is shown in Fig. 822.
The hat, hot from the steam-oven, is placed in the dish D. The lever A is brought down to a level with D, and the strong spider F is locked in the lug G. E is a strong pipe through which water from the retort is forced into the india rubber bag C. The machine being locked the full pressure of water is allowed to force itself against the inside of the polished dish, giving the felt the exact form and surface of the pattern inside. On shutting off the water from the inlet pipe, the outlet is opened, drawing the water from the bag, thus freeing the hat from pressure. The press is opened, the hat is removed, and the process is repeated. When properly completed, the hats are ready for the "finisher." Finishing.—Any room with good light will be suitable. In it are fixed a row of " finishing "-lathes ABC, as shown in Fig. 823. These are driven from D, giving motion to the upright shafts F, by pulleys G H. The underside of the pulley H is covered with leather, to increase the friction, and produce steadiness. The lever E when out of gear raises the pulley H, and, by destroying the frictional contact, stops the machine. The face-plate I, keyed fast to the upright spindle, has screwed to it iron pegs, on which to fix the wooden block having the form of a hat when pressed. On the outer edge of the table that carries these finishing-lathes, iron plates, similar in outline to half the aide of a hat, serve to finish the underside of the brim. Turning the hat with one band and sandpapering with the other, a fine surface is produced, on completing which, the hat is placed upon a block on the pegs on the face-plate I. The machine is then set in motion, and after brushing the hat with a stout brush, the finisher gently applies the sand-paper to the upper side of the brim, side, and crown. The block performing an uneven oircle from its oblong shape, demands a nice touch in applying the sand-paper, otherwise the shoulders of the hat will be shaved bare to the proof, the work being spoiled in consequence. The hat is taken from the block, finished by sandpaper with
the hand along the sides and crown, and placed again upon the block. Velvet and moleskin values are used : the velvet one, moistened with water, is placed upon a hot iron, to convert the moisture into steam ; this is applied to the outer surface of the hat, after which, the moleskin, or another velvet velure heated on the iron, is again sharply applied. The machine is sct in motion after complet iog the side of the hat, to bring the crown to a regular even polish, finishing the underside of the brim on the brim-plate. " Wools " and fine goods are treated in the same manlier. To finish soft hats, a different method is resorted to. Before they can be either pressed or finished, a steaming bench is used. The block being shaped to the design ordered, the finisher draws the hat over the block, covers it with a tin eap, and softens it by steam. Putting the block on what is called a "spinner," the hat is drawn down, until the tip is free from puckers, a cord or draw-band securing the hat to the edge of the block. Leaving it to cool, another hat is treated in the same manlier, and then removed to the finishing-lathe, to pass through the same treatment as the hard goods. If desired, these soft hats can be pressed after this process, when the surface is made very much finer ; but they are not pressed until all the damp acquired in finishing has gone off, for if subjected to pressure in such a condition, it will be found that the bodies, when pressed in by the hand, have their felt opened, and look much coarser than before. Soft hats are rounded in the brim, i. e. cut to a size, by a gauged knife, shown at P, in Fig. 828.
Another kind of hat is the " half-stiffened," or "frame" hat, so called from the shape of the brim, being obtained from a wooden or tin frame, made to the style of curl required. The hat in such a ease is placed under steam, like the soft ones ; the brim is pulled wide to the frame, and a draw-band is firmly fastened round a groove made in the frame, to determine the shape of the curl. Thrusting the hat down the centre of the frame, the block for shaping the crown is forced to the tip by a screw in a small iron frame upon which the hat and block rest. The underside of the brim is then sand-papered, before removal, which must not take place before the hat is cool. The finishing-lathe may then complete the hat, as in the other kinds.