It is unnecessary to describe the various early methods employed in making silk hats. At first a felt body covered with a long-napped plush was used ; then a body made of woven " willow grass," stiffened with paste. Soon the short-napped plush was introduced into this country from France, by some French workmen who had been brought over for the purpose of teaching their mode of manufacturing silk hate, and being found an much more suitable, it displaced the long naps, and has been continuously used in various qualities from that time. Shortly after the Paris silk plush was brought into use here, a new and improved body, made upon an entirely new principle, and from altogether different materials, was invented by a workman, and was at once adopted generally. It is the samo as that universally in use, and known as the "gossamer body." Silk hat making is divided into three branches for male labour : bedy-malcing, finishing, and shaping ; and two minor branches in which women are employed : crown-making and trimming.
first process, and by no means the least important, is tho body-making, as unless the body is well made, it is impassible that durability can be ensured. A length of calico is dipped into the " couglo," or solution of shellac, and allowed to become thoroughly saturated. It is then taken out, and drown through the half-closed hand to express superfluous eougle, and is next stretched upon a frame, shown at H, Fig. 829. Another length is served in the same manner, and then placed upon tho frame over the first piece; the workman filially presses thorn tightly down upon the pegs of tile frame, and with his open hand rubs each surface of the calico until both are in direct apposition, taking care that no blisters, or air bladders, are left upon any part of the surface. Only two substances or pieces are usually put upon the frame when required for the crown, but for brims it is necessary (when it is desired to have them prepared upon the frame) to take a stouter calico, and stretch it upon the frame first ; then a still heavier make, a " twill," is put on second, followed by a third piece of the same substance as the first, precisely in the same manner as described for the crown frame. The frame is then put into the drying-room, and allowed to remain until the calico upon it becomes quite dry and stiffened.
When the prepared calico is ready for use, it is taken off the frame. That intended for crowns is cut into strips of 8 in. wide, these being sufficient to make doz. crowns and tips from one frame.
A block of the required shape and size is then taken, and a strip of the prepared calico is cut to the required length, just to go round the block tightly, with 4. in. to spare to lap over and form the seam. The two ends are then just lapped, placed upon an iron bar, and next ironed with a hot iron, after which a "dummy " (a small flat iron), used cold, is pressed over it in order to fix the seam. It is lastly damped, and the block G, Fig. STJ, is,put into it, a piece at a time, first the backand front, then the side pieces, and the middle piece or " boss" last. The boss being forced iu, the block assumes its shape, with the gossamer stretched tight around it. The seam being brought about i in. to the back of the gossamer, is left above the tip of the block ; it is ironed fiat, and is then ready for receiving the "tip," which is a piece cut off from that which forms the ale crown. This 4 c is ironed to the rim, turned over from the side, and fixed thereto. A thin strip of calico stiffened with spirit varnish, and called a "robin," is next ironed on to the edge of the tip. A piece of unstiffened calico or muslin is then placed over, lapping over the crown and tip about in., the side Crown is brushed over with cougle, and just lapped at the side, the tip being covered in the same manner, trimmed close to the block, and put into the drying-room to remain until thoroughly hardened. The block is made from well-seasoned wood, alder being mostly used. It consists of five pieces, and Is turned in a lathe to the shape required. The crown being dry, it Is made ready for receiving the brim. The block is taken out, removing the middle piece first, and bending the sides inwards; a thin piece of bone or hard wood, about in. wide, called a "slip-stick," is passed between the block and the crown, to free any part that may have adhered to the block. A shell made of felted wool is placed inside the crown, and the block is again inserted. The shell is used to prevent the crown adhering to the block while being ironed, which it wouldo therwise do, as the iron is used very hots The crown is laid upon its side, upon the bench or plank, and a little powdered gum damar is sprinkled over the surface, to prevent the iron sticking to the crown. It is ironed until the surface is perfectly smooth and bright all round. The tip is then ironed in the same manner, and the crown is complete, requiring only the brim to form a perfect body.