The hat is now ready for the last process at the hands of the finisher, viz. "half-blocking." A half-block E (Fig. 829) is selected to the shape of the hat, and being fitted to the arm, is screwed upon the plank. The hat is then placed upon it, the block having been previously removed, and ironed without wetting the silk. After the iron, the dummy is passed over the part just ironed, until the body is thoroughly rounded to the half-block, and assumes its proper shape. A velure or polisher made of swans'-down is damped, and the iron placed upon it, to make it very hot. It is then passed over the aide crown, which gives great brilliancy to the silk. The tip being ironed on the tip-block D (Fig. 829), and polished in the same manner, the hat is put into paper, the brim is brushed, ironed, and polished on the top side, and the hat is complete so far as the finisher is concerned.
There are two methods of preparing the material for brims : the one already described, termed " water-brims " ; and the other "pounced brims." The latter are preferred by some makers, as being more easily curled by the shaper, and with leas liability of the substances separating from each other during that process; but a large experience of the use of water-brims has demonstrated their superiority in wear, as they retain their firmness much better than the pounced brims, and can be produced thinner and more " tinny," with less weight, which is a great consideration.
The pounced brim is made in the following manner. A piece of "awans'-down," i. e. a coarse calico, with a nap raised on one side only, is cut to the required size, 13 in. by 12 in., for the ordinary width of brim ; the centre is cut out, and it is then placed upon a square board, and some ground shellac is sprinkled evenly over the swana'-down, from a tin box, the lid of which is perforated with small holes. A very hot iron is then passed over the shellac, which melts it and causes it to be absorbed by the swans'-down, thereby stiffening the latter. Another piece of swans'-d own is then laid upon that already treated, and served in precisely the same manner, repeating the process until doz. or more pieces have been ironed together. As soon as cold, which is in a few minutes, the pieces are pulled apart, and some cougle is rubbed over each aide, after which a piece of plain calico is brushed on, with more cougle, on each aide of the pounced swans'-down, and hung up to dry, when another substance of calico is brushed on one or both sides, according to the weight of brim required. When dry, it is ironed well on both sides, and iu the same manner as described in the water-brims, the difference being merely in the mode of preparation.
The brim of the body is cut by a rounding-machine, of the same kind as is used for felt hate, to the required width and form, prior to being finished.
There is another mode of finishing which is very similar to that already described, but the block is dispensed with, and the tip-block and half-block are substituted in lieu thereof. There is a little time and trouble saved ; but on the whole, it is scarcely so satisfactory a mode, as that of finishing entirely on the block.
Shaping.—This branch has only to do with the brim, viz. its curling and setting. In this, taste and skill are required. Much depends upon the shaper : if he is a good and skilful workman, the style and smartness of the hat are greatly enhanced. The hat, after leaving the finisher, is examined, and if perfect, is passed to the shaper, who gives to it the shape required in the brim, which may be an Anglesea curl, a rolled curl, or a plain-edged curl. If an Anglesea, the hat is placed upon the plank, with the brim downwards, and the iron is passed over the outer edge of the brim on the bare silk, without being wetted, until the brim is made quite soft. The edge is then taken with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, and pulled up from right to left for about in., lessening the width towards the front and back ; it is next pressed over with the foot dummy until the part turned over lies flat on the brim. The other aide is then curled in the same way, and the front and hack are just slightly curled on the edge, gradually widening to the side. The curl nt the aide is then ironed again, slightly raised, made quite free from folds or creases, and pared on the ragged or inner edge. It is now ready for the trimmer. When trimmed, it is returned to the shaper to be completed. He again irons the curl, but must now use a piece of damped swans'-down over the curl to prevent the silk binding from becoming glazed by the iron. The curl is then finally adjusted and raised as required. The hat is now placed upon a brim-wanner, which frequently forms the top of the oven in the shaper's shop. It has an arched top, and it is heated by hot water or steam. In a few minutes, the brim will be sufficiently warmed to render it soft and pliable. The hat is placed on the plank on its tip, with the brim upwards, and is then set, i. e. it is pressed with one hand on each aide until it is well rounded, with the front and back dipping down. The brim is now ironed with the damp awans'-down over it, and made perfectly level, and free from indentations or irregularities. A silk band being put upon it to match the binding, it is completed.